My Trip to a Victorian Town

At the beginning we learn to travel, then we travel to learn.
William Least Heat-Moon

This summer I had the good fortune to spend five weeks in Port Townsend, Washington. It was a dream of mine to spend time there ever since the first time I stopped there in 1981. After spending another long, hot summer in Arizona, last fall I found a vacation rental in Port Townsend with the intention of spending time there in 2018. Driving there was the hard part. Once I arrived in Port Townsend my dream became a reality. The town is located at the northeast tip of the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State. The city is known for its natural beauty surrounded by water and mountains, artists, Victorian buildings, boat builders, cultural events, and maritime center. The city is small with a population of less than 10,000 except during cultural events like the Film Festival in September when I was told the population rises to 30,000.

View of TownVictorian House 1.JPGVictorian House 2

Since this is a food blog, I’ll share with you some of the fantastic food I ate. Even though the place had a kitchen, I decided not to cook. The place I rented was on Morgan Hill overlooking the city and was accessible on foot to Uptown, Downtown and Fort Worden State Park. Every day I walked by 19th century Victorian homes adorned with beautiful gardens. I also had daily visitors from deer and robins. One fawn came by so often, I named her Dawna and painted her.


Dawna watercolor by Charisse

There are two areas of town that I frequently visited, uptown which is uphill from downtown.  Every Saturday there was a farmer’s market on Taylor and Lawrence from 9 am until 2 pm with fresh organic produce, flowers, handcrafted items, fantastic food, baked items, wine and cider tasting, handcrafted cheeses and live music. There was also a fabulous bakery there called Pane d’Amore. I went there more than once! They made a morning glory muffin which was delicious. You could buy a mini one for $1. The uptown area had a grocery store, shops, restaurants, a movie theater, yoga and a pub.

Farmers Market.jpg

Organic Lettuce.jpgSalmon Booth at Farmers MarketSalmonSeafood Spot.JPGSweet Lamb BakingCrust Pie PT

Oyster Banner.jpg


I got to go to the farmers market four times. There were so many delicious things to try it was hard to choose. During the four visits I had a pesto and heirloom tomato croissant from Sweet Lamb Baking Co. a chocolate pastry and fig bar from Crust Pies, the salmon sandwich from Cape Cleare Salmon In Season Catering , a crab cake from The Seafood Spot and finally tried an oyster at Johnston & Gunstone Shellfish. There I purchased red alder cheese from Mt Townsend Creamery. The salmon sandwich was the best thing I ate there. Everything about it was superb, the bread, tartar sauce, greens and salmon.

Pane d Amore.JPGBaked Goods.JPG

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Rothschild House Overlooking the Water

One of the best things about Port Townsend is Fort Worden. Originally Fort Worden was designed as a military base to protect Puget Sound. Now the park is home to cultural events in art and music, woodworking classes, conferences, camping and family reunions, and weddings. While I was there I enjoyed music from fiddle tunes and jazz week, took a yoga class, walked the grounds, visited my friend’s campsite, and enjoyed a glass of wine at Taps.

Fort Worden Looking at Point Wilson Lighthouse

Fort Worden Point Wilson Lighthouse

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Madrona Mind and Body Yoga Studio at Fort Worden

While there I took many trips to places nearby. Olympic National Park and Lake Crescent is less than a two hour drive away. I had breakfast at Lake Crescent Lodge before hiking to Marymere Falls.

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Lake Crescent Lodge

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Lake Crescent Lodge Breakfast

Lake Crescent

Lake Crescent

Marymere Falls.JPG

Marymere Falls

Downtown Port Townsend is a picturesque area on the water with historic buildings, art galleries, a ferry dock which takes you to Coupeville, restaurants, gardens, bookstores, hotels, bakeries, ice cream shops, various shops, movie theater, Northwinds Art Center and the Jefferson Art and History Museum where we took a historic walking tour. During my stay I tried many of the restaurants including Doc’s Marina GrillAlchemy BistroSiren’s, BayviewFountain CafeCourtyard CafeHillbottom PieSea J’sBamboo LeafPippa’s Real TeaBlue Moose Cafe, and Silverwater Cafe. My favorite place was Hillbottom Pie where I went three times. They had the best Caesar salad I’ve ever had and their clam chowder was the best too. Doc’s was great too. I won’t be mean and say the one place where I was ignored twice (it was overlooking the water and was always busy and not enough help.) I also went to Cellar Door a few times for open mic and that place was a lot of fun. So was Port Townsend Brewery where I listened to music a few times outside on their patio and Pourhouse where you can bring your own food and listen to music outside near the water.

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View of the water in downtown Port Townsend

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Water Street

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Art Gallery on Water Street


Eisenbeiss Building

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Hastings Building on Water Street

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Green Eyeshade

Salmon Salad Alchemy Bistro.jpg

Salmon Salad at Alchemy Bistro

Blue Moose Cafe.jpg

Blue Moose Cafe

Blue Moose Cafe Breakfast.jpg

Blue Moose Cafe Breakfast

Hillbottom Pie

Hillbottom Pie my favorite place


Docs Marina Grill.jpg

Doc’s Marina Grill best fish ‘n chips

Sea Js.jpg

Sea J’s best dive restaurant & best fishwich with my friends from Seattle

Sea Js Sign

One Sunday I drove to Chimacum to listen to music on the patio and did a cider tasting at Finnriver Farm & Cidery.  I also made sure and visited the downtown movie theaters and saw Won’t You be My Neighbor at the historic Rose Theater and watched Leave No Trace at The Starlight Theater my last night there.

Finn River Flowers.jpg

View at Finnriver Farm & Cidery

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Finnriver Ciders I tasted

Rose Theater.jpg

Rose Theater


Starlight Movie Theater

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Starlight Movie Theater Concessions

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Starlight Theater with my friend


Watercolor Collage of Summer 2018 by Charisse



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